Milanto Logs, continued

5 December

WE ARE HALF WAY!! Early morning the attachment of the spinnaker gave way with a loud bang this is a fairly difficult repair but by sundown we had all joined in to do a sewing job. The repair looks horrible but we hope will see us through. Without the spinnaker it is unlikely we can achieve the necessary 200 miles per day to ensure a good place in the race. Despite this set back we ironically still achieved 200 miles the last 24 hours ( that is 8.5 knots average). Alex and Igor sent off a message in a bottle this afternoon. This overnight we had the most perfect clear skies and a bright almost full moon to brighten the sea. Again no other boats were heard on VHF or seen this day. We arew quite amazed that we are so isolated when we are at sea going in the same dirction and similar speed to 250 othe yachts and we have not seen any merchant shipping either for 5 days now. 6 December Whales, lots of them have been escorting us today for about for hours. We believe them to be Minke Whales. The repaired spinnaker is ready to go up now but the wind is a little too strong so it will remain down until we cannot sustain eight knots on our main sails. Rubbish disposal is a problem for us as we do have to be environmentally friendly. We take care that only biodegradable rubbish goes into the sea. So, all plastics, especially have been crushed and stored. We now are dicussing the arrival time for St Lucia as with just 1200 miles to go there is optimism on the night of 12 December. We are planning a sweepstake on the most accurately estimated arrival time

logs from MILANTO in the ARC trans-Atlantic race

One of our most stunning boats – a Swan 46 – is crossing the Atlantic in the ARC Race. Here are the logs!

LOGS MILANTO – 24 NovemberOur first day has been spent heading south west to find some wind and to get to know each other and the workings of Milanto. The route is somewhat of an enigma. Someone said go south until mthe butter melts the turn west, or follow the leaders who must know the best route We have an on board computer downloaded weather report showing expected wind directions for the Atlantic together with speeds and seven day projection This is generated as a pictorial wind map of the Atlantic on the screen which helps with the guess work… But the weather can be a fickle friend or foe

We passed down the coast of Gran Canaria at a good speed of 6 knots and watched the wind almost disappear as the sun went down with the sun as it set. the night was spent under a canopy of stars watching the sky glow of gran canaria slowly disappear on the horizon

A fresh day brought more sunshine with ambient temperatures up to 28 degrees centigrade.

25Nov

We caught a fish this afternoon. We dragged a lure behind the yacht and when the wind drops we have an attractive lure that is in reach of any passing fish. The fish we caught was a Dorada. Now that is fresh fish! The race is now 24 hours from the start only five other yachts are in sight now as there is no fixed route and the Atlantic is a big space. Our speed has reduced somewhat for this day but has been made up by good winds in the evening and overnight. We are still in communication with another Italian crewed yacht through our VHF Transceiver that has a range of 20 miles. The talk is not secure so we can listen in on all the other chats within 20 miles of our position. This morning we had the most glorious sunrise after a night that was so pitch black you could not see beyond the dimly lit decks the red glow from our compass light and the surrounding streaming foam from our passage

26 November

We have now settled to a routine on watch, meals sleep, on watch again .We socialize at meal times and have a general social life in the daylight hours on deck. This night however has exhausted all of us. Several sail changes as it became dark left us with the combination of a spinnaker and mainsail up as the evening progressed the wind became much stronger and we picked up speed peaking at 11 kts. Handling the Milanto with the spinnaker and main sail was difficult for the helm. We all donned our lifejackets on deck and down below the ride was rather like standing in a roller coaster ride. A visit to the bathroom or the preparation of food became a major challenge! As the night progressed it was decided to lower the main sail to help reduce a rocking motion as this happened calamity struck the spinnaker disintegrated from a large ballooning kite to a stream of tattered strips We slowed to remove the remains of the spinnaker and replaced this one sail with two goose winged sails on the forestay. While this was going on the whole crew where summoned to the deck to help. At that same moment a fish struck the line and the noise from the running reel had to be ignored for the time. One hour later we where under way again and had another fish which went in the freezer. The next day we were all exhausted and off watches were spent recovering with deep sleep

 

27 November

We have no other boats in sight of us now, and feel very alone on a big ocean. Our 46 foot Milanto feels very small. The days and the evenings are very warm and we all change watches with just shorts and light T shirts for wear. We all don lifejackets at night and for rougher day weather just in case one of us looses balance on a rolling deck and falls overboard. For more safety we all have a two metre safety hitch from our lifejacket harnesses to the deck or some other fitting 28 November The sea today is surreal it is so calm with the appearance of a lake like surface. It is so hard to imagine where we are. Not to last for very long thank goodness as we would be here for months not weeks! Today we were contacted by another ARC sailboat by VHF radio (range 30 miles). They could see us on the horizon. Apart from the normal greetings of such an encounter they advised is their spinnaker pole had broken irreparably and they additionally could not receive weather broadcasts. We advised them of the latest weather we knew and said farewell We have caught a weird fish this evening. At 80 cm long with a thin long and slender body it looks at first appearance like an eel but there the similarity ends. The head resembles that of a Barracuda with rows of nasty looking teeth. The eyes were huge reflecting altogether a nocturnal carnivorous monster.

29 November

Having a shower is a different experience on board. The inside of the toilets are analogous to a windowless box the size of a small elevator Inside are the sink, loo and shower( very cosy) ,but the roller coaster ride at sea makes for a lot of fun and effort no matter what you are doing! We have seen a pod of Dolphins this day. We have had them prancing alongside us and crisscrossing the bow for over thirty minutes. This evening we also had a strange visitation. The sky was blackness and only visible was our wake in the dimness. Suddenly, there appeared to be a large rat scurrying across the deck catching us all by surprise. Further investigation revealed a flying fish that had come to a sad end by his poor night navigation! (We have had this occur many more times since this first incident). We reckon they think Milanto is a big whale approaching and scatter on its approach through their airborne escape route.

30 November

Waves of the size of a bungalow at 15 metre spacing are causing a lot of rolling overnight and some seasickness and nausea has raised concern. Winds of 35 knots are the culprit and sail changes make the going tough. A night visit by a pod of dolphins has enhanced the phosphor fluorescence accompanying our wake each night. The dolphins create an iridescent glow of sparkling fluorescence around their torsos as they zip through the sea alongside 1 December A celebration today of Valerio’s birthday A beautiful moonlit night has really given the song “Moon River” its source. When there is nothing else beyond the yacht a low moon gives a fantastic shimmering blue-white “river” of sparkling iridescence.

 

2 December

A great celebration today of Don’s 50th Birthday

Today we caught the largest Dorada weighing in at approximately 7.5 Kg. A long fight with this fish for about twenty minutes needed the efforts of three of us to “land” it in the deck of Milanto. Dinner this evening was a great presentation of the Dorada cooked by Mauricio. Some of us are now exceptionally tired as we have had several evenings now of sail changes and a few problems. We expect things to settle now for the rest of the crossing due to our improving experience and efficiency in managing 24 hours of each day with changes in direction of the wind and our planned track.

Cannes to St Tropez Itinerary

Day Motor Trip: Cannes, Iles Lerins, La Napoule, Estorel, Frejus, St. Tropez

Cannes, being midway between St Tropez and Monaco, is an ideal place to start a day trip. Depending on the weather, you can head Northwest to Nice, Villefranche and Monaco, or Southeast to La Napoule, Estorel, Frejus and St Tropez.

Here is a sample itinerary South from Cannes – perfect for a day charter

Cannes Meet the boat and leave from Cannes. Circle around the beautiful bay to see the town and Croisette from the water and zip over the the Iles de Lerins. There is clear water for snorkelling and usually plenty of boats to check out between the two islands. If you have plenty of time, get out for a hike around the island.Then head onward – there’s a lot more to the day! First you’ll head past la Bocca, where there are some nice sandy beaches that are less “flash” than Cannes.
La Napoule See the Castle of la Napoule – from the water or stop and see the museum and gardens if you wish. There’s a small beach near the castle as well. La Napoule also boasts a 3* Michelin restaurant called “the Oasis”.
Esterel , St Rapheal and Frejus You’ll continue past beautiful small port towns as you approach the Estorel, an enormous and stunning rock formation. Then on to St Raphael and Frejus. Frejus has long sandy white beaches, and inland boats Roman ruins.
St Tropez There are really two St Tropez’s, the old town with its shops, winding streets and rows of Mangustas in the port, and the beaches on the other side of the peninsula, famous for the white sands and private beach restaurants.Most people chose to arrive at the beaches, for which the town is world famous. Make your reservations for any of the numerous restaurants and anchor offshore along with the Mangustas, Rivas and hundreds of other beautiful yachts. All of the beach restaurants have a different character, from relaxed to “flash”, but all offer good dining, social life, and of course comfortable beach chairs on which to relax for an afternoon. To see the stars, try to get into Club 55. For a very relaxed day with good service, we recommend Tropezina.
Cannes Sadly, you need to get the boat back to Cannes, after a memorable day out. The return trip, past all of the above sights, will take approximately an hour in a motor boat.

St Barts

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More Nautical Sayings

Over the Barrel –
The most common method of punishment aboard ship was flogging. The
unfortunate sailor was tied to a grating, mast or over the barrel of a deck
cannon.

To Know the Ropes –
There was miles and miles of cordage in the rigging of a square rigged
ship. The only way of keeping track of and knowing the function of all of
these lines was to know where they were located. It took an
experienced seaman to know the ropes.

Dressing Down –
Thin and worn sails were often treated with oil or wax to renew their
effectiveness. This was called “dressing down”. An officer or sailor who
was reprimanded or scolded received a dressing down.

Footloose –
The bottom portion of a sail is called the foot. If it is not secured, it is
footloose and it dances randomly in the wind.

Booby Hatch –
Aboard ship, a booby hatch is a sliding cover or hatch that must be
pushed away to allow access or passage.

First Rate –
Implies excellence. From the 16th century on until steam powered ships
took over, British naval ships were rated as to the number of heavy
cannon they carried. A ship of 100 or more guns was a First Rate
line-of-battle ship. Second rates carried 90 to 98 guns; Third Rates, 64 to
89 guns; Fourth Rates, 50 to 60 guns. Frigates carrying 20 to 48 guns were
fifth and sixth rated.

Pipe Down –
Means stop talking and be quiet. The Pipe Down was the last signal from
the Boson’s pipe each day which meant “lights out” and “silence”.

Chock-a-block –
Meaning something is filled to capacity or over loaded. If two blocks of
rigging tackle were so hard together they couldn’t be tightened further,
it was said they were “Chock-a-Block”.

Leeway –
The weather side of a ship is the side from which the wind is blowing.
The Lee side is the side of the ship sheltered from the wind. A lee shore
is a shore that is downwind of a ship. If a ship does not have enough
“leeway” it is in danger of being driven onto the shore.

Windfall –
A sudden unexpected rush of wind from a mountainous shore which
allowed a ship more leeway.

Groggy –
In 1740, British Admiral Vernon (whose nickname was “Old Grogram” for
the cloak of Grogram which he wore) ordered that the sailors’ daily ration
of rum be diluted with water. The men called the mixture “grog”. A sailor
who drank too much grog was “groggy”.

Three Sheets to the Wind –
A sheet is a rope line which controls the tension on the downwind side
of a square sail. If, on a three Amsted fully rigged ship, the sheets of the
three lower course sails are loose, the sails will flap and flutter and are
said to be “in the wind”. A ship in this condition would stagger and
wander aimlessly downwind.

Pooped –
The poop is the stern section of a ship. To be pooped is to be swamped
by a high, following sea.

As the Crow Flies –
When lost or unsure of their position in coastal waters, ships would
release a caged crow. The crow would fly straight towards the nearest
land thus giving the vessel some sort of a navigational fix. The tallest
lookout platform on a ship came to be know as the crow’s nest.

Buoyed Up –
Using a buoy to raise the bight of an anchor cable to prevent it from
chafing on a rough bottom.

By and Large –
Currently means in all cases or in any case. From the nautical: by meaning
into the wind and large meaning with the wind: as in, “By and Large the
ship handled very well.”

Cut and Run –
If a captain of a smaller ship encountered a larger enemy vessel, he might
decide that discretion is the better part of valor, and so he would order
the crew to cut the lashings on all the sails and run away before the
wind. Other sources indicate “Cut and Run” meant to cut the anchor
cable and sail off in a hurry.

In the Offing –
Currently means something is about to happen, as in – “There is a
reorganization in the offing.” From the 16th century usage meaning a
good distance from shore, barely visible from land, as in – “We sighted a
ship in the offing.”

Skyscraper –
A small triangular sail set above the skysail in order to maximize effect in
a light wind.

The Bitter End –
The end of an anchor cable is fastened to the bits at the ship’s bow. If
all of the anchor cable has been paid out you have come to the bitter
end.

Toe the Line –
When called to line up at attention, the ship’s crew would form up with
their toes touching a seam in the deck planking.

Back and Fill –
A technique of tacking when the tide is with the ship but the wind is
against it.

Overhaul –
To prevent the buntline ropes from chaffing the sails, crew were sent
aloft to haul them over the sails. This was called overhauling.

Slush Fund –
A slushy slurry of fat was obtained by boiling or scraping the empty salted
meat storage barrels. This stuff called “slush” was often sold ashore by
the ship’s cook for the benefit of himself or the crew. The money so
derived became known as a slush fund.

Bear Down –
To sail downwind rapidly towards another ship or landmark.

Under the Weather –
If a crewman is standing watch on the weather side of the bow, he will
be subject to the constant beating of the sea and the ocean spray. He
will be under the weather.

Overreach –
If a ship holds a tack course too long, it has overreached its turning point
and the distance it must travel to reach it’s next tack point is increased.

Gone By the Board –
Anything seen to have gone overboard or spotted floating past the ship
(by the board) was considered lost at sea.

Above Board –
Anything on or above the open deck. If something is open and in plain
view, it is above board.

Overwhelm –
Old English for capsize or founder.

Between the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea –
The devil seam was the curved seam in the deck planking closest to the
side of the ship and next to the scupper gutters. If a sailor slipped on
the deck, he could find himself between the devil and the deep blue
sea.

The Devil to Pay –
To pay the deck seams meant to seal them with tar. The devil seam was
the most difficult to pay because it was curved and intersected with the
straight deck planking. Some sources define the “devil” as the
below-the-waterline-seam between the keel and the the adjoining
planking. Paying the Devil was considered to be a most difficult and
unpleasant task.

Rummage Sale –
From the French “arrimage” meaning ship’s cargo. Damaged cargo was
sold at a rummage sale.

A Square Meal –
In good weather, crews’ mess was a warm meal served on square wooden
platters.

Son of a Gun –
When in port, and with the crew restricted to the ship for any extended
period of time, wives and ladies of easy virtue often were allowed to live
aboard along with the crew. Infrequently, but not uncommonly, children were
born aboard, and a convenient place for this was between guns on the gun
deck. If the child’s father was unknown, they were entered in the ship’s log as
“son of a gun”.

Overbearing –
To sail downwind directly at another ship thus “stealing” or diverting the wind
from his sails.

Taking the wind out of his sails –
Sailing in a manner so as to steal or divert wind from another ship’s sails.

Let the Cat Out of the Bag –
In the Royal Navy the punishment prescribed for most serious crimes was
flogging. This was administered by the Boson’s Mate using a whip called a cat
o’ nine tails. The “cat” was kept in a leather or baize bag. It was considered
bad news indeed when the cat was let out of the bag. Other sources
attribute the expression to the old English market scam of selling someone a
pig in a poke (bag) when the pig turned out to be a cat instead.

No Room to Swing a Cat –
The entire ship’s company was required to witness flogging at close hand. The
crew might crowd around so that the Boson’s Mate might not have enough
room to swing his cat o’ nine tails.

Start Over with a Clean Slate –
A slate tablet was kept near the helm on which the watch keeper would
record the speeds, distances, headings and tacks during the watch. If there
were no problems during the watch, the slate would be wiped clean so that
the new watch could start over with a clean slate.

Taken Aback –
A dangerous situation where the wind is on the wrong side of the sails
pressing them back against the mast and forcing the ship astern. Most often
this was caused by an inattentive helmsman who had allowed the ship to head
up into the wind.
At Loggerheads –
An iron ball attached to a long handle was a loggerhead. When heated it
was used to seal the pitch in deck seams. It was sometimes a handy weapon
for quarreling crewmen.

Fly-by-Night –
A large sail used only for sailing downwind and requiring rather little attention.
No Great Shakes –
When casks became empty they were “shaken” (taken apart) so the pieces,
called shakes, could be stored in a small space. Shakes had very little value.
Give (someone) a Wide Berth –
To anchor a ship far enough away from another ship so that they did not hit
each other when they swung with the wind or tide.
Cut of His Jib –
Warships many times had their foresails or jib sails cut thinly so that they
could maintain point and not be blown off course. Upon sighting thin foresails
on a distant ship a captain might not like the cut of his jib and would then
have an opportunity to escape.

Garbling was the prohibited practice of mixing rubbish with the cargo. A
distorted, mixed up message was said to be garbled.The British navy filled their ships’ crew quotas by kidnapping men off the
streets and forcing them into service. This was called Impressments and was
done by Press Gangs.

Touch and Go –
This referred to a ship’s keel touching the bottom and getting right off again.

Scuttlebutt –
A butt was a barrel. Scuttle meant to chop a hole in something. The
scuttlebutt was a water barrel with a hole cut into it so that sailors could
reach in and dip out drinking water. The scuttlebutt was the place where the
ship’s gossip was exchanged.

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